Lucky in Lucknow

Today marks six weeks in India; we are feeling settled in our home and in our volunteer work. We are friends with the two other AJWS volunteers here, and really like the people we work with. Our ob-gyn landlord takes care of us and let's me ask her questions about women's health in India. My next goal, though likely not attainable, is to attend a birth with her. We have had the opportunity to do some really wonderful things...here is a synopsis of some of the events in the past couple weeks...sorry for the length, so much to share!

Sanatkada, a craft store selling fair-trade goods, held a week long fair showcasing all of the vendors they carry in the store. In addition to the beautiful clothes, fabrics, and crafts, each night there was a musical performance and food. During the six day event I was there four days and Dan three...check out the pictures of the dancing, the demonstrations, and the goods. The schedule listed a Rhajisthani and UK fusion folk band for one of the nights. I saw folk and was thinking Arlo Guthrie...this was nothing of the sort...amazing sounds of the Rhajustani instruments, like the morchang, mixed with guitar and incredible beat-boxing from the UK. We will post a sound clip soon. The fair, where many souvenirs were purchased, was great and allowed us insight into all of the great art and culture in Lucknow.

Each night when we returned home from the craft fair we would see groups of men walking with festive carriers all headed in the same direction. Having no idea who they were, what they were doing, or where they were going, Trudi did some research. These men were making a pilgrimage to a 'nearby' shiva temple for Maha Shivarti, Shiva's birthday. The term 'nearby' is relative- the temple was in Barabanki, about 100 kilometers from Lucknow. Our guess is that some of these men could have walked as far as 200 kilometers carrying the traditional offerings of milk and ganga water without taking a break or setting down the offerings. We were told the harder the journey, the more likely the wishes will come true.

This is not something you will find in Lonely Planet or Rough Guide so we knew we had to check it out (though Dan stayed back to get our laptop fixed). Molly, Trudi, and I hired a driver for the two hour drive into the country, passing pilgrims the entire way. We arrived to a small village lined with small vendor stands and followed our driver to the gates of the temple...which were closed. He exchanged some hindi with the guards and the three of us, and only the three of us, were ushered through the door. We made our way the metal baricaded snaked line to the front and were greeted by officers holding bamboo sticks for crowd control. We waited a few minutes at the front of the line with no one behind us when suddenly a crowd lined up behind us.

At this point I felt guilty and uncomfortable- guilty because these men walked hundreds of kilometers to get here. They could only take short breaks and were not allowed to put down their offerings until they arrived. Lined up behind us they were so close, and so anxious to touch the Shiva lingum, give her the offerings, and make their wishes. We drove and weren't here for religious reasons or because we wanted to ask for a healthy harvest or a prosperous year for our poor families. Then I questioned what we were doing here and if we were safe- three western women, shoeless, standing in front of hundreds of charged, screaming men, anxious to give their offerings. I calmed my discomfort by reminding myself that these men were exhausted from their journey, and were all totally stoned from their thandai, a customary drink made with milk and weed.

The guards guided us into the temple and we were invited to touch the lingum (yup, three western Jewish women touching the Shiva lingum on Shabbat). We left the temple and watched the men throw their offerings onto the lingum, screaming 'bombole' with excitement. I bought a souvenir lingum and shiva and we made our way back to Lucknow. I hope this description does the experience justice...it was pretty incredible and unlike anything I have seen or done before. There are pictures of the journey, but out of respect, I did not take any in the temple.

The Papaji ashram is a short walk from our house and we have been spending a lot of time there doing yoga, eating yummy dinners, and sitting on the terrace...more on that in a later post. Papaji's ashram, because of his followers, is associated with Organic India and the company's tea farm is just a short drive from busy, honk-filled Lucknow through a beautiful lush forest to the tea farm. Dan stayed back to deal with the laptop (yes, again) and I went with Trudi and Molly, Molly's friend Kate (she speaks Hindi so we call her Hindi Kate), and my German colleagues, Gigi and Meran. We spent a lovely day sitting in the sun, exploring the farm, eating falaffel (!!!), and sipping tea. Check out the photos of the grounds, the tea, and the flowers. Raja, our host at the farm, told me "ah, I see heaven in your eyes since you arrived here." He was right!

One of the must-dos on my India list is to attend a wedding...time to check that one off! Dr. Neelam's colleague's son was married on Tuesday night and she got us an invite. If we were Indian, no one would have noticed us there amongst the hundreds of guests, but as Westerners, it was hard to miss us. My perception, based on very short exchange with the bride and groom, is that they were excited to have us there, and even more excited when they learned it was the first time I had worn a sari.

Dr. Neelam's assistant helped dress me in the sari I got from Dan my birthday. Bangles and a bejeweled bindi complimented the sari perfectly.We missed the wedding ceremony, and when we arrived at 9:30pm, we greeted the bride and groom and their families, gave them the flower bouquet gift we brought them, and took a photo together...this is the tradition. Then we ate- delicious gourmet versions of typical streetfood like pani puri and aloo chat, Chinese food, Italian food, a spread of traditional Indian dishes and breads, and desserts. We were introduced to many of Dr. Neelam's doctor friends and I received many compliments of my sari and Dan on his traditional Indian vest. The venue with the lights and flowers was really beautiful- here are some photos.

All of the photos referenced in this post are in this album.